From Paso Robles to Vietnam

by Herb Lee
April 2000

Our short trip turned out to be the little big tour that took us from Paso Robles to Vietnam. Vietnam! No, we did not actually go there. But, it was a part of our tour.

When Geno Masuda first suggested a 4-day bike tour beginning and ending at Paso Robles, I figured it would be a straightforward ride through beautiful country in the central coastal region of California. An area I had never ridden.

This less developed and quieter region sounded like the perfect place for a bike tour. The tour would be a reunion of Geno, Dick Fraschetti, and myself. Together, we had completed an arduous two-week tour in the Rocky Mountains of Southwestern Colorado in the summer of 1999. Geno wanted to establish a tradition with this same group to do a loaded bike tour each year.

This short tour would take us from Paso Robles through the Hunter Liggett Military Reservation onto the coastal highway. From there, we travel south through San Simeon and Cambria, and then it's back to the start along Highway 46. Based on Geno's descriptions, I expected a great ride in a very scenic area.

So, you may wonder, how does Vietnam fit into a 4-day trip out of Paso Robles? I will explain.

Although I had anticipated a lot of great riding, bike touring is about more. It is also about meeting the people along the way. No matter how fleeting the encounter. We have to be more than just silent travelers passing through. Besides, it is difficult to go unnoticed considering our appearance in flashy garments that only appeal to other cyclists.

As a would be traveler, I was reminded during this trip that we must travel with our minds and hearts open. We must accept what our surrounding has to offer both in sight and experience. We must observe without judgment, accept without conditions, and enjoy the opportunities to glimpse the lives of others. Plans are general concepts and deviations are welcomed. In the end, this trip will probably be remembered for the great people we encountered as well as the great riding I had expected.

Our first day turned out to be 68 miles. Much more than 50 miles we had planned. But, our detour through the wine country surrounding Paso Robles was well worth the effort. Vineyards on rolling hills and fields of wildflowers were frequent sights along our route.

After a difficult segment into a headwind late in the afternoon, we stopped to rest at a wayward store in Lockwood. Sitting in front of the store, we noticed that all five patrons of the market had bought only beer. Cradled in their arms as they departed was a 6-pack here, a 6-pack there, and a single after that. This was cause for us to ponder those who might choose such an isolated life miles from anywhere. When a sixth person finally exited the store without any beer, we cheered and hailed him into conversation.

As it turns out, he was a fellow cyclist who planned on riding the coming weekend's wildflower ride out of Paso Robles. He informed us of the possibility of rooms at the Hearst Hacienda within the military reservation. Upon hearing this, Geno promptly led us to Fort Hunter Liggett in search of the hacienda. The alternative was our planned campsite located at the entrance of the reservation three miles from any facilities. For Geno, this meant we would be three miles from a hot meal. So, a room at the hacienda was just what the doctor ordered after such a long day.

After a hot shower and good dinner, we concluded the evening observing the exultance of our military men after 10 days in the field performing laser war games. The beer flowed freely amongst the men. Eventually, their talk and laughter turned into howls of penned up testosterone as the night settled in. Such were the distance sounds I hear as I drifted into sleep.

We began the next day with a visit of the restored San Antonio Mission located within the reservation. An intriguing museum to life in this region during the early 1800's. The subsequent ride to Kirk Creek Campground took us through open woodlands of massive oak trees. Most of which were centuries old. Nacimiento Road ends with an eight mile descend and breathtaking view of the rugged coast.

Our campsite was ideally located overlooking the blue waters of the Pacific Ocean. However, any thoughts I had of falling asleep to the sounds of crashing waves was quickly slashed when the final campsite next to us was taken by a carload of young adults carrying surfboards. Their talk and laughter filled the night as rest of the campers retreated to their motor homes, trailer, and tents. As I finally dozed asleep to sounds of waves and laughter, I was reminded of my youth when one was free to dream the impossible and to enjoyed life unencumbered by the demands of adulthood.

My next day started with a flat tire, but we were blessed with a sunny blue day and a general tailwind up 20 miles per hour as we rode down the coast. Too bad the whales had already migrated northward for we surely would have been able to spot them. But, the herds of elephant seals congregating on the beaches were quite a sight. At a corner store in San Simeon, we met a group of four staying at Cambria. They were also cycling enthusiasts and two of them had just ridden down from San Francisco.

We traded story of rides and places traveled for more than an hour. It occurred to me that Geno was in his true element as he stood on an elevated porch talking about his travels. It was as if he was on a stage and we were the audience standing on the roadway below. His graying beard seemed to fit the character projected of a seasoned traveler as he spoke of the miles traveled both on and off the bike.

Eventually, in the course of conversation, word was mentioned of a hostel in Cambria. I think I actually saw Geno's ears raise by an inch. Needless to say, we headed straight for the hostel. As for myself, a bed at the hostel sure beats our planned campsite more than three miles from town. After all, Cambria is a charming coastal town adorned with colorful flowers and lined with quaint shops, gardens, and eateries. What could Dick say; it was two votes out of three.

At the hostel, we were greeted by a man in his late fifties with a strong German accent named Helmut. When Helmut saw our loaded bikes, he immediately referred to us as "his kind of people". As it would turn out, Helmut who originally emigrated from Germany is also a cycling enthusiast and has done quite a bit of bike touring. That was not something I would have fathomed upon our initial meeting due to his overgrown gray beard, slight hutch and board build. Geno and Helmut were an instant hit with each other and the stories of travels and places visited began to flow immediately.

This is where Vietnam finally comes into this story of our 4-day bike tour out of Paso Robles. It appears that Helmut along with his daughter and two friends had recently completed a bike tour along the coastal highway of Vietnam from Hanoi to Saigon, a distance of approximate 1100 miles. When Geno heard there was a video of their tour, he immediately asked about a viewing.

After dinner at Linn's and a walk about town, we turned to the hostel to find a huge bowl of caramelized kettle popcorn and a TV/Video waiting. So we settled into the big comfortable sofa and began our journey within a journey.

Suddenly, we were transported more than 8,000 miles to a foreign land the size of Montana with a population of 78 million people. We were in Vietnam along with Helmut and his group, a land in sharp contrast to the style of living that we were accustomed to here in the states.

The group traveled mostly by bike from north to south without the benefit of a guide and mingled directly with the Vietnamese people. Although, they did not speak the language, they traveled on their own eating food purchased from the open markets and street vendors. We went along as they sampled the local cuisine and ate fruit with names such as green dragons, jujubes, and water apples. At one place, they were invited to stay at the home of a local villager because the Vietnamese believe it is good fortune to welcome travelers into their homes.

With Helmut's personal narration, we traveled along with the adventurous group for more than two and half hours. Through the eye of Helmut's camera, we walked the grouped bustling streets of Vietnam filled with pedestrians, bikes, motorcycles, and a few vehicles in a chaotic whirlwind of activity. Life for the Vietnamese is out on the streets with its variety of shops, stalls, carts, and sidewalk vendors. Crossing the streets is definitely a dangerous sport.

We went along with them as they toured the countryside with its vibrant green rice paddies tended by women in their woven grass conical hats. We saw the sights they saw and learned the vigors of travel in Vietnam. Through the video, we saw the natural wonders of Halong Bay with its 3000 island rising out of clear emerald waters, the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh in Hanoi, the Cham Towers of PO Nagar, and the beaches of Nha Trang. For me, this was truly a journey within a journey.

So, now you know the story of how we went from Paso Robles to Vietnam on a 4-day bike tour. Sometimes, if we travel with open minds and hearts, we can be pleasantly surprised at what we encounter. What we see and hear can give us cause to reminisce, reflect, and to think of possibilities. Riding back to Paso Robles on our last day, I was thankful for the good people we had met on this tour. For me, our little tour had become so much more than just a great ride.