IN THE COLORADO ROCKY MOUNTAINS

My First Long Tour

by Herb Lee
July 1999

The gentle sway and melodic sounds of the train rolling over miles of steel track appeared to hold us in a hypnotic trance. Our subdued demeanor was in sharp contrast to the excitement and anticipation we felt 15 days ago when we boarded the train for Grand Junction. That was where we planned to start our grand adventure in the southwestern Rocky Mountains of Colorado.

Now, gazing at the passing landscape in solemn silence, the westward train appeared to make little progress on the seemingly endless scenery of Utah. I felt physically and mentally let down after completing our demanding 610 mile bike trek in 12 days with a total of 36,100 feet of climbing while carrying more than 50 lbs. of gear. Although the three of us, Geno Masuda, Dick Fraschetti and I, are all seasoned cyclists and outdoor enthusiasts, none of us had ever attempted anything like this.

Fourteen days ago, we had disembarked at the Grand Junction Amtrak Station amidst dark and foreboding thunderclouds. As we assembled our equipment the crack of thunder could be heard from the south where the remaining patches of blue sky were fast disappearing. We took comfort in the fact that we had initially planned to ride west toward the Colorado National Monument. Maybe the thunderstorm would miss us.

After lunch downtown, we started riding to the town of Fruita near the entrance to the monument. Within a mile, we began to feel the sprinkle of rain which quickly turned into an afternoon rain shower. We found shelter in a nearby housing development and huddled under the narrow roof overhang to stay dry.

Standing under the narrow shelter, I felt a sudden surge of anxiety for what I had gotten myself into with this bike trip. We were on our own with no support; it was raining; and we had not even ridden a mile. According to a local resident, "...the early monsoon season down south means afternoon rains here." Locals welcomed the rain since the region had been in a prolonged drought before this.

Throughout life we always want things to be perfect and rain on our trek was not perfection. For most cyclists, rain on any ride would be their worst nightmare. This was a 600 mile bike trek. But then again, this is the essence of self-contained touring on bikes. Travel by bike means being completely out amongst the elements of nature. For the first time, I felt uncertainty. What was I doing here out of my comfort zone?

Real or imagined, I sensed an uneasiness among the group since no one appeared ready to face rain so quickly. We had not even had time to adjust to life on the bike before being confronted by rain. Life can be so unkind. Can I really handle this and enjoy it for 600 miles? After finding my rain covers at the bottom of my rear panniers, I placed them over the bags and hoped all would remain dry.

We rode onward along the wet shimmering roadway when the rain finally broke. Within another mile of riding, we were again besieged by showers. This time it was a heavy downpour turning the deserted streets into channels for water overflowing into the Colorado River. I could only stand under the sparse protection of a tree in my raingear and wish I had brought some additional foul-weather garments.

Partially soaked from head to feet, I had to face the realities of unsupported bike touring. It's easy to be at home filled with wanderlust, dreaming about rides in exotic places and reveling in the sense of independence that comes with loaded bike touring. But the reality can be harsh. Here we stood in the pouring rain, for better or worse. We no longer had the comfort and protection of our homes, cars, or even the train. Riding in the rain would have to be accepted and expected since we still had 600 miles to go.

It was immediately obvious that our daily priorities and concerns would become more basic such as the need for water, food and shelter. I made a mental note to reorganize my gear and place more important items such as rain gear so they were more accessible. I had ridden in rain many times while commuting to work. This should be no different and I should do it with a smile. After all, as Geno would say, "even the worse day of cycling is still better than a day at the office."

As it turned out, my acceptance of rain as part of the overall adventure of bike touring became my first step toward completing our journey. From that auspicious first day and that momentary stutter in my desire to tour on bike, we rode our arduous route to its completion.

And when I came down Red Mountain Pass and Wolf Creek Pass in the rain, I had a smile on my face and joy in my heart. It was wondrous to see and experience the dramatic and beautiful Rocky Mountains in the midst of afternoon rain. It had been our good fortune to have relatively warm summer conditions even during rain and to have three easy-going and good-natured riders. Whatever worked best for the others was all right for everyone.

Although we had a formidable task at hand, we rode mile by mile, day by day, and one mountain pass at a time until we reached our journey's end. I rode the final miles to Glenwood Springs and was glad to have accomplished our objective but sad to see it end.

We had been well rewarded for our efforts There were the rosy pinnacles and mountains of the Colorado National Monument, the breathtaking views down the gorge of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River, and the many local hot springs where we soaked our tired bodies. We rode high in the midst of the towering Rocky Mountains surrounded by colorful wildflowers, groves of quaking aspens, and grand vistas only to descend upon charming mountain towns nestled amongst looming mountain ridges.

For each day of the trek, there was something new to see and enjoy. The experiences and vistas from this journey will forever be etched in my mind along with the memories of friendly and helpful people encountered along the way.

There was Eric Hansen from Phoenix, Arizona who stopped and gave us ice cold water during our climb over McClure Pass. In the town of Creede, we met John and his wife Donna who recently moved from New Mexico to run a Bed & Breakfast Inn. She looked so much like Jamie Lee Curtis that I had to take triple and quadruple looks. Hope I didn't stare too hard. Their gracious hospitality and molasses bread made our highlights.

There was John Coover from Madison, Wisconsin who treated us like long lost friends upon our second encounter. I wish him well wherever he is and I hope it's on a mountain top. These and the countless other people we met along our journey contributed immensely toward making this a successful and memorable bike tour.

Thanks Geno for inviting me and for your leadership. You were a true ambassador for our trip and Sacramento cycling Thank you Dick for your friendship and your humor. You made an arduous journey fun. It was a great ride. As our friend Geno would say, "Orgasmic."